Beauty of HUE - VIETNAM

Hue

Hue (pronounced "hway"), along with Hoi An a few hours to the south, is the cultural heart of Vietnam and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Despite the heavy toll that war has exacted on the city over the last 150 years, Hue possesses an enduring charm. Adding Hue to your itinerary will greatly deepen your Vietnam experience and bring you closer to the Vietnamese people.

Getting to Know Hue

Orientation

Hue is located in central Vietnam, about 335 miles south of the national capital of Hanoi and 400 miles north of Ho Chi Minh City, the country's largest city, formerly known as Saigon. Hue's main geographical feature is the Perfume River (Huong Giang), with the old city and the Imperial Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has been developed into a pleasant promenade and park dotted with sculptures.

A timeless scene: Sunset on the Perfume River, near Hue (flickr user EverJean)

Be aware: Hue's weather is notoriously bad. The Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it's usually drizzly or rainy, and things get even drippier than usual in the winter rainy season. Bring along an umbrella any time of year.

History

Under the rule of the Nguyen dynasty, Hue was the capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945. The 13th and last Nguyen emperor, Bao Dai, abdicated in 1945 to Ho Chi Minh and his increasingly powerful Viet Minh followers, who then established a Communist government in Hanoi to the north in defiance of French colonial authority.

Following the withdrawal of the French in 1954, Vietnam was divided into North and South Vietnam, with Hue situated just 50 miles south of the newly created border. Not surprisingly, the city suffered extensive damage in the Vietnam War. Hue was the site of a bloody battle in 1968 which pitted troops from North Vietnam against South Vietnamese forces and American Marines.

After the war's conclusion, many of the historic buildings of Hue were neglected, being seen by the victorious regime as relics of colonial rule, but there has since been a change of policy and some parts of the historic city have been restored.

The fragrant scent from colorful incense sticks such as these wafts throughout Hue's temples and tomb complexes

Things to See

Imperial City

The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, the Imperial City--also known as the Citadel--is a sprawling complex of enclosures, temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. It is also delightfully peaceful--a rare commodity in Vietnam.

The Imperial City's mighty walls (flickr user sridgway)

Construction on the Citadel began in 1804 under Emperor Gia Long as a residence for the royal family, off-limits to outsiders. The citadel was badly damaged during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the battle of Hue, when it was shelled by North Vietnamese forces and then bombed by the Americans as the two sides fought over the city. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields or fragments of walls, with nothing more than explanatory plaques to explain what was. Other buildings are intact, though, and a few are in excellent condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, much still needs to be done to return them to their former splendor.

A lavishly decorated gate in the Citadel (flickr user gorik)

This is one place in Vietnam where it pays to hire a good English-speaking guide. Allow several hours to see the complex properly.

• Cua Ngo Mon (The Noon Gate): This is the main southern entrance to the city, built in 1823 by Emperor Gia Long. The central door, and the bridge connecting to it, were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice view of the exquisite courtyard. The emperor would address his officials and the people from the top of this gate. In fact, the last emperor, Bao Dai, announced his abdication from this spot in 1945.



Only the emperor could enter the Imperial City through the Noon Gate (flickr user sridgway)

• Thai Hoa Palace: Built in 1833, Thai Hoa palace, also known as the Palace of Supreme Harmony, served as the emperor's coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries. You can still see the original throne.



Take the time to notice the exquisite artistry of wall paintings like this, typical of what you'll see in the Imperial City (flickr user exfordy)

• Truong Sanh Residence: Translated as the "Palace of Longevity," the Truong Sanh Palace was the residence of King Tu Duc's mother, Empress Tu Du, in the 19th century. Currently undergoing renovation, the project includes the restoration of Lach Dao Nguyen, the Palace's protective moat, as well as decorative man-made rock formations and mountains, bonsai gardens, and the palace gate. The restoration is expected to be completed in 2009, but this is doubtful. While the residence is not officially open to the public, the grounds are accessible and definitely worth seeing.



Elegant urns adorn a garden in the Citadel

• Forbidden Purple City: Directly behind Thai Hoa Palace, the Forbidden Purple City was the home of the emperor and his concubines. A fire in 1947 destroyed the structure, however, and today you have to visualize what it looked like. The Royal Theater is being rebuilt to replicate exactly the theater that was destroyed. There are also some lovely landscaped gardens around the partially restored Thai Binh Reading Pavilion.



The entrance to the Forbidden Purple City

Tombs of the Emperors

The other great attractions in Hue are the tombs of the emperors, which are located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise. Plan to make a full day of it. The tombs mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do other than build themselves elaborate burial sites. The finest of them are the tomb of Tu Duc, the tomb of Minh Mang and the tomb of Khai Dinh, all of which are excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. The older ones have been allowed to crumble into picturesque semi-ruin, although some are now being restored.

• Tomb of Gia Long: The most remote and oldest of the tombs, Emperor Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, rests here.
• Tomb of Minh Mang: In this opulent complex, the main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. The mausoleum features large gardens and lakes, which make for a pleasant place to sit and relax.



Hue is often rainy, but somehow the rain only makes the tombs, such as Minh Mang's, even more contemplative and calming (flickr user mrbold_flickr)

• The tomb of Thieu Tri was built in 1848 as the final resting place for Thieu Tri, the third emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, who died in 1847.



The tomb of Emperor Thieu Tri's wife in his tomb complex at Hue (flickr user wwhyte1968)

• The tomb of Tu Duc was constructed from 1864 to 1867 as a sort of second Imperial City where Emperor Tu Duc could escape the pressures of court in Hue. A scholar and philosopher, Tu Duc built a vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to many of his 104 wives. The emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest--the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle.



Emperor Tu Duc made sure to complete his tomb almost 20 years before his death in 1883, and it's one of the largest and most opulent (flickr user joxeankoret)

• Tomb of Khai Dinh: Completed in 1931, this must-see building is the best preserved of all the tombs in the area. While the Khai Dinh tomb follows the classic Vietnamese design of forecourts leading up to the tomb of the emperor, architecture buffs will spot some European influences as well. The tomb itself is lavishly decorated with detailed, ornate mosaics of cavorting dragons. Head up the hill on the right side of the tomb and you'll find a small temple with a great view of the tomb and the valley it faces.



The extraordinary sculptures at Khai Dinh are a highlight of this tomb complex

Other Sites

• Thien Mu Pagoda: Perched on a bluff overlooking the Perfume River and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images, the Thien Mu Pagoda was built in 1601. The pagoda is the official symbol of the city of Hue.



Don't miss the lovely Thien Mu pagoda, the iconic image of Hue (flickr user zongo69)

• Vinh Moc tunnels: Built from 1965 to 1966 to support the North Vietnamese Viet Cong guerrilla forces during the Vietnam War, the Vinh Moc tunnels are an extraordinary feat of engineering. To dig over a mile of tunnels, sometimes 70 feet deep, 64,000 square feet of red soil that had to be removed and dispersed un-noticed on the nearby beach. The tunnels sustained an entire community underground, with homes for families, a small cinema, a hospital and kitchens. An estimated 7 tons of bombs per tunnel resident were dropped by the American military in an ultimately futile effort to destroy the subterranean hideout.

The Vinh Moc tunnels are about 37 miles north of Hue. Wear clothes that you don't mind getting dirty, and be aware that the tunnels can get a bit claustrophobic.



These mannequins provide an idea of the close quarters--and the extraordinary tenacity--of the guerrilla fighters who made their home in the Vinh Moc tunnels during the Vietnam War (flickr user Margrethe Store)

• The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ): Following the French withdrawal from Vietnam in 1954, the country was partitioned along the 17th parallel into North and South Vietnam. When the Vietnam War began, the area around the DMZ saw some of the heaviest fighting. Hue travel agents eagerly sell tours of the DMZ. Don't settle for a budget tour, however; hiring a knowledgeable guide is important since many of the wartime sites are today indistinguishable from farmers' fields.
• Thuan An Beach: If you need a break from the city, Thuan An beach is just about 8 miles to the north. The beach is popular with Vietnamese from the cities and is definitely a place to see and be seen as much as it is for swimming. The seafood is excellent here as well.

Eating in Hue

Trying delicious local specialties like bun bo Hue should be a big part of your trip to Vietnam (flickr user avlxyz)

The cuisine of Hue draws from throughout Vietnam, but the city is known in particular for its vegetarianism. Several all-vegetarian restaurants are scattered in various corners of the city to serve the locals who, as part of their Buddhist beliefs, have a strong tradition of eating vegetarian twice a month.

The most famous local dish is bun bo Hue, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (me xung), which is peanutty, chewy and and cheap.

Nem Lui is a dish of sweet, minced pork around bamboo sticks grilled over hot coals. Banh Khoai is a pancake filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork, and Bun Thit Nuong is delicious barbecued pork served with vegetables and noodles.

A woman selling fruit in Hue; buying food from vendors can be as much of cultural experience as eating in local restaurants (flickr user Forragio)

According to vietnam.com

According to Traveladventures.com